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| Fingerboard Dye? http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=2110 |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Tue Jun 07, 2005 2:51 am ] |
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I have not used Stewmac's fingerboard dye, and one of my ebony headplates is a little more stripey than I would like. I am thinking about using this, but I am a bit concerned about the dye bleeding into my underlying headstock veneers (holly and ebony) and the mahogany below. Does anyone have any experience with this? If it isn't 100% safe I am going to go with the wood the way it is. I am way behind on this project and can't afford a major screw up. |
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| Author: | John How [ Tue Jun 07, 2005 3:42 am ] |
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I have used the SM fingerboard dye. It is very dark and I didn't use it near any lighter bindings. You would have to be very carefull in that regard. In my case the stripey ebony was on the headstock front and there were no bindings. It dries very fast and probably wouldn't soak thru the headstock overlay so if you are worried about that just keep it on the headstock front and don't go over the edge. |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Tue Jun 07, 2005 3:54 am ] |
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My head stock veneer has not been applied yet. I was going to darken it before I glued it on, but my worry is that once the titebond (or other type of glue) hits it that the color will run a bit. The layer directly under this will be holly and it is so white that any smudging will be noticable. |
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| Author: | John How [ Tue Jun 07, 2005 4:04 am ] |
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My headstock overlays are generaly 3/32" thick or so with a veneer under that if I put a veneer on and I just darken the face if needed keeping any stain off the edge. Like I said if you have to go over the edge with the stain you'll probably be in trouble. Try some stain on a scrap to see how much it soaks in and if you can get it off. |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Tue Jun 07, 2005 4:07 am ] |
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i have used their dye in repairs. it is actually made for leather. i have always allowed it plenty of time to soak in, then to dry thoroughly, followed by a light wipe down with dna to remove any surface pigment, and have had no problems, yet. but perhaps a better choice might be an aniline with the solvent opposite to your finish, i.e. water with nitro and alcolol with waterbourne. i actually like the colouration in ebony and don't dye when building. |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Tue Jun 07, 2005 4:17 am ] |
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I agree. I like the grain too... but on this one, I need it jet black, and there is a faint cream streak running through this headplate. |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Tue Jun 07, 2005 5:34 am ] |
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Brock your timing is perfect! I actually have a very stripy fingerboard on the LS-Rosewood SJ that Tony is finishing right now, I have some of that SM Black dye too, that stuff is SUPER BLACK!!!!! and hard to get off the fingers! Rubber gloves are highly recommended! I had planed to use it when the guitar is returned back to me, I'm glad to hear its user friendly far as bleeding goes. I have ebony bindings and no fret board purfs, so I should be OK. |
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| Author: | John How [ Tue Jun 07, 2005 5:40 am ] |
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It will blacken or at least darken your inlay (though it shouldn't soak in) also but it can be removedwith a little DA. Just be sure there are no cracks or scratches in your inlays. |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Tue Jun 07, 2005 5:45 am ] |
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the only inlay are the MOP dots, ill tape them off - thanks John! |
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| Author: | tippie53 [ Tue Jun 07, 2005 2:59 pm ] |
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I use this stuff and love it. I don't tape off the pearl I just smear and wipe. Once the stuff dries a little buff off with 0000 steel wool brightens up the pearl like new john hall |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Wed Jun 08, 2005 4:27 am ] |
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More great advise! Thanks John! |
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